Blog entry
September 12, 2009
Peeter and Carol Vanker
Several Inuit family groupings from the community of Qikiqtarjuaq joined us on the ship for our barbeque. They were joined by the two RCMP officers assigned to the village. In appreciation they brought some raw narwhal whale skin and blubber for us to eat. It proved interesting and not as fish-tasting as we had anticipated.
A number of the crew, and some of the passengers jumped into the freshly filled ocean water pool on the ship for a “polar bear dip”, some even voluntarily.
We continued sailing along the east coast of Baffin Island and saw many towering icebergs and majestic cliffs. By the way, Baffin Island is the fifth largest island in the world!
At dinner time the sea was quite wavy and a rogue wave hit our ship causing some chairs and table settings to overturn.
We awoke at 4:45 AM to the sound of the anchor dropping. It was 3 degrees C. and snowing lightly in Sunneshine Fjord (spelled correctly).
Before breakfast some went on a challenging hike up a mountainside along the fjord and others hiked around the rocky shore. In the distance we saw the remnants of the DEW “line” (early warning system) established following World War II. We were fortunate that the sun began to shine again.
When we returned to the ship, the ship provided champagne to celebrate the crossing of the Arctic Circle. A huge brunch followed.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Peeter and Carol's Adventures
Sept. 11, 2009-09-11
Peeter and Carol Vanker
When we neared Alexander Harbour the weather deteriorated, the fog came in, the wind increased and it began to snow heavily. Whale watching was cancelled and we continued south. We had lectures, a movie and a demonstration of Inuit throat singing by one of our onboard Inuit guides.
We woke up to brilliant sunshine, temperature of about 6 degrees C., a bonus day in Qikiiakjuaq on Broughton Island off the east coast of Baffin Island, about 100 km. north of the Arctic Circle.
We landed in a small harbour by zodiac boats. We had a walking tour of this village of 500 persons. We visited one of the three hotels with 8 rooms at $ 225 per night. The nursing station is served by 3 nurses and a doctor who visits twice a month. They are building a senior citizens’
complex. The water is brought by tanker truck from a spring on a mountain side and is sold to the residents and $ 450 per tank full.
We were told that the polar bears become a nuisance in about a month’s time. The community has an “early warning” system of dogs on the periphery. Outside one of the homes was a recent walrus kill. Ours is apparently only the third cruise ship to visit this village this year.
Pond Inlet where we visited a few days ago had 8 ships visit this year, and 12 in 2008.
We visited the two local coop stores. Some sample prices were as
follows: 1.89 l. Tropicana juice: $11.39; 355 ml. single container of Tropicana juice: $9.69; a 4 litre bag of 2% milk: $12.49; Sarah Lee frozen apple pie: $22.89. P.S. Milk products are subsidized by the government.
We again had a throat singing demonstration in the community centre gym.
Outside a number of items were for sale, including seal skin mittens and slippers, sketchings, and an almost 8 foot long narwhal whale tusk (specially elongated tooth) priced at $4000.00. Unfortunately it was too long and heavy for our suitcase!
We’re off to a barbeque on the deck for our lunch. The food has been varied and plentiful.
Peeter and Carol Vanker
When we neared Alexander Harbour the weather deteriorated, the fog came in, the wind increased and it began to snow heavily. Whale watching was cancelled and we continued south. We had lectures, a movie and a demonstration of Inuit throat singing by one of our onboard Inuit guides.
We woke up to brilliant sunshine, temperature of about 6 degrees C., a bonus day in Qikiiakjuaq on Broughton Island off the east coast of Baffin Island, about 100 km. north of the Arctic Circle.
We landed in a small harbour by zodiac boats. We had a walking tour of this village of 500 persons. We visited one of the three hotels with 8 rooms at $ 225 per night. The nursing station is served by 3 nurses and a doctor who visits twice a month. They are building a senior citizens’
complex. The water is brought by tanker truck from a spring on a mountain side and is sold to the residents and $ 450 per tank full.
We were told that the polar bears become a nuisance in about a month’s time. The community has an “early warning” system of dogs on the periphery. Outside one of the homes was a recent walrus kill. Ours is apparently only the third cruise ship to visit this village this year.
Pond Inlet where we visited a few days ago had 8 ships visit this year, and 12 in 2008.
We visited the two local coop stores. Some sample prices were as
follows: 1.89 l. Tropicana juice: $11.39; 355 ml. single container of Tropicana juice: $9.69; a 4 litre bag of 2% milk: $12.49; Sarah Lee frozen apple pie: $22.89. P.S. Milk products are subsidized by the government.
We again had a throat singing demonstration in the community centre gym.
Outside a number of items were for sale, including seal skin mittens and slippers, sketchings, and an almost 8 foot long narwhal whale tusk (specially elongated tooth) priced at $4000.00. Unfortunately it was too long and heavy for our suitcase!
We’re off to a barbeque on the deck for our lunch. The food has been varied and plentiful.
Peeter and Carol Vanker
We are continuing our leisurely cruise in brilliant sunshine down the east coast of Baffin Island. There has been a constant stream of beautiful iceberg along the way.
We anchored at Monumental Island early this morning. We went by zodiac to a number of very small nearby rocky islands. We were thrilled to see one polar bear ambling along the rocky shoreline at a fairly close proximity. We saw another bear swimming near the shore and then join the second on the shore. They paced the rocks for some time. We then moved closer to a stunning iceberg in the zodiac during our 1 ? hour sail.
On another island we spotted five walruses lounging on the rocks. We watched them looking at us and moving their flippers up and down. One had lost one of its amazing tusks.
We are now sailing towards the entrance of Ungava Bay in northern Quebec in the Inuit territory of Nunavik. We hope to make another zodiac sail around Akpatok Island before continuing on to our final stop in Kuujjuaq from where we will fly to Montreal. We will only be dock at high tide.
This will be our last opportunity to blog our trip. The rest of our memories we will be able to share with you firsthand.
We are continuing our leisurely cruise in brilliant sunshine down the east coast of Baffin Island. There has been a constant stream of beautiful iceberg along the way.
We anchored at Monumental Island early this morning. We went by zodiac to a number of very small nearby rocky islands. We were thrilled to see one polar bear ambling along the rocky shoreline at a fairly close proximity. We saw another bear swimming near the shore and then join the second on the shore. They paced the rocks for some time. We then moved closer to a stunning iceberg in the zodiac during our 1 ? hour sail.
On another island we spotted five walruses lounging on the rocks. We watched them looking at us and moving their flippers up and down. One had lost one of its amazing tusks.
We are now sailing towards the entrance of Ungava Bay in northern Quebec in the Inuit territory of Nunavik. We hope to make another zodiac sail around Akpatok Island before continuing on to our final stop in Kuujjuaq from where we will fly to Montreal. We will only be dock at high tide.
This will be our last opportunity to blog our trip. The rest of our memories we will be able to share with you firsthand.
Peeter and Carol Vanker
Sept. 13, 2009
Peeter and Carol Vanker
We had just completed the first portion of our Christian worship service when the announcement was made to proceed to the decks immediately for a special surprise viewing. Eleven harp seals were splayed out on the smooth surface of a flat top iceberg. As someone noted, it was most appropriate that the seals were “harp” seals! As our ship passed by the seals slid into the ocean, popping their heads up to watch us pass. We haven’t been interrupted at worship in such a memorable way before. What a privilege this entire trip has been with its many exciting surprises.
Peeter and Carol Vanker
We had just completed the first portion of our Christian worship service when the announcement was made to proceed to the decks immediately for a special surprise viewing. Eleven harp seals were splayed out on the smooth surface of a flat top iceberg. As someone noted, it was most appropriate that the seals were “harp” seals! As our ship passed by the seals slid into the ocean, popping their heads up to watch us pass. We haven’t been interrupted at worship in such a memorable way before. What a privilege this entire trip has been with its many exciting surprises.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Eastern Baffin Island, Polar Bear sightings, and more Icebergs
Peeter and Carol Vanker
We are continuing to cruise along the eastern shore of Baffin Island. We saw many beautiful large icebergs calved in Greenland. The currents take them first north and then south towards Newfoundland in what is called “iceberg alley”. Since 90% of each iceberg is below the waterline, their movement is affected more by current than by wind.
This morning breakfast was at 6 AM. We lowered the anchor in “Refuge Harbour” in the Gibbs Fjord. It is a beautiful, sheltered harbour, surrounded by high peaked rock mountains. Many glaciers spill down the steep mountain sides which rise directly from the water.
On top of one of the ridges surrounding the harbour we saw three polar bears, a mom and her two cubs heading away over the ridge. This reminded us to be especially cautious when on shore.
We hiked on the Arctic tundra. It was very spongy, sometimes dry, sometimes boggy and wet, including many moss covered rocks. We picked Arctic blueberries, hiding in their crimson red miniature foliage. The autumn tundra colours were magnificent shades of yellows, golds, reds, greens, browns, off-whites and grays. We saw four large white Arctic hares on the mountain side, weighing about 5 or more kilograms. Our groups got within 7 metres of one, but the hare never moved. We saw many lemming holes and their scat in the spongy tundra. The tundra consisted of Arctic willow hugging the ground, spongy mosses and lichens.
We are spending the afternoon sailing through a magnificent, steep-sided fjord. Three polar bears have just been sighted and we are off to see them.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Pond Inlet, A Birthday to Remember & Glaciers Spilling into the Sea
Peeter and Carol Vanker
Sailing towards Pond Inlet located at the top of Baffin Island, we saw a large number of sea birds, mainly Kittiwakes, but no whales as yet.
Carol was surprised at dinner time by our Craig group host who had provided streamers, balloons, and a cake and wine to celebrate her birthday and the birthday of another of our fellow Craig travellers.
Peeter had planned to buy roses but could not find any in the Arctic.
We witnessed a spectacular sunset with icebergs in the distance. Once we learned that we could open our porthole window, we enjoyed the fresh Arctic air and the soothing sound of the waves.
This morning the mountain ranges on both sides were jagged snow covered peaks instead of the flattened tops of the mountains on Devon Island. Many glaciers were spilling into the sea.
We had a very fascinating stop on Pond Inlet. The wind and waves at 5:30 AM were quite high but had moderated sufficiently by 9 AM. for us to embark in the zodiac tenders to land on a gravel beach.
We wandered through the streets in this small community of 1500 persons, over 50% under 15 years of age. We visited the Coop store where Carol got a soap stone polar bear carving as well as an ulu (an indispensible, traditional Inuit tool used by their women for cutting). We attended an Inuit cultural presentation of traditional Inuit sporting games, songs and dances. We “enjoyed” a wild zodiac ride back to our ship as the wind had picked up considerably. We were glad for our waterproof pants, coats and boots.
We learned that the official Canadian symbol for the 2010 winter Olympic games will apparently be the inuksuk, the central symbol on the Nunavut Inuit flag.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Icebergs!
Peeter and Carol Vanker
On our way through Lancaster Sound we saw a beautiful calving glacier.
The wind remained extremely strong most of the day. As we drew closer to Arctic Bay just off the North West passage where our refuelling would take place, we encountered a magnificent towering glacier almost 20 stories high gleaming in the setting evening sun. The ship drew very close for us to admire the ice berg. It was larger than any of the icebergs we had seen in Antarctica. Our expedition leader said that it was a very rare sight in this area. We also saw several other very large icebergs in the distance.
We listened to further lectures about the Arctic and watched a movie about the Arctic.
This morning we arrived at our fuelling station, the only deep water port in the Arctic. This stop was necessitated because of a fuel truck rollover two weeks ago when the ship originally was scheduled to refuel.
During the 7 hour refuelling stop we hiked up the surrounding hillside, accompanied by several armed guides who preceded us, looking for polar bears. Our groups were accompanied by several of the ship’s on board naturalists. The federal government has plans to establish a major deep water port in this remote Arctic region in Nanisivik.
We have learned that the Canadian territory of Nunavut has an area of 2 million square km. (about 4 times the size of France), 30,000 inhabitants, and 28 Inuit communities.
P.S. One of our armed guards just told us that on a previous landing he encountered 6 polar bears.
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