Blog entry
September 12, 2009
Peeter and Carol Vanker
Several Inuit family groupings from the community of Qikiqtarjuaq joined us on the ship for our barbeque. They were joined by the two RCMP officers assigned to the village. In appreciation they brought some raw narwhal whale skin and blubber for us to eat. It proved interesting and not as fish-tasting as we had anticipated.
A number of the crew, and some of the passengers jumped into the freshly filled ocean water pool on the ship for a “polar bear dip”, some even voluntarily.
We continued sailing along the east coast of Baffin Island and saw many towering icebergs and majestic cliffs. By the way, Baffin Island is the fifth largest island in the world!
At dinner time the sea was quite wavy and a rogue wave hit our ship causing some chairs and table settings to overturn.
We awoke at 4:45 AM to the sound of the anchor dropping. It was 3 degrees C. and snowing lightly in Sunneshine Fjord (spelled correctly).
Before breakfast some went on a challenging hike up a mountainside along the fjord and others hiked around the rocky shore. In the distance we saw the remnants of the DEW “line” (early warning system) established following World War II. We were fortunate that the sun began to shine again.
When we returned to the ship, the ship provided champagne to celebrate the crossing of the Arctic Circle. A huge brunch followed.
Showing posts with label Cruise North Expedition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cruise North Expedition. Show all posts
Monday, September 14, 2009
Peeter and Carol's Adventures
Sept. 11, 2009-09-11
Peeter and Carol Vanker
When we neared Alexander Harbour the weather deteriorated, the fog came in, the wind increased and it began to snow heavily. Whale watching was cancelled and we continued south. We had lectures, a movie and a demonstration of Inuit throat singing by one of our onboard Inuit guides.
We woke up to brilliant sunshine, temperature of about 6 degrees C., a bonus day in Qikiiakjuaq on Broughton Island off the east coast of Baffin Island, about 100 km. north of the Arctic Circle.
We landed in a small harbour by zodiac boats. We had a walking tour of this village of 500 persons. We visited one of the three hotels with 8 rooms at $ 225 per night. The nursing station is served by 3 nurses and a doctor who visits twice a month. They are building a senior citizens’
complex. The water is brought by tanker truck from a spring on a mountain side and is sold to the residents and $ 450 per tank full.
We were told that the polar bears become a nuisance in about a month’s time. The community has an “early warning” system of dogs on the periphery. Outside one of the homes was a recent walrus kill. Ours is apparently only the third cruise ship to visit this village this year.
Pond Inlet where we visited a few days ago had 8 ships visit this year, and 12 in 2008.
We visited the two local coop stores. Some sample prices were as
follows: 1.89 l. Tropicana juice: $11.39; 355 ml. single container of Tropicana juice: $9.69; a 4 litre bag of 2% milk: $12.49; Sarah Lee frozen apple pie: $22.89. P.S. Milk products are subsidized by the government.
We again had a throat singing demonstration in the community centre gym.
Outside a number of items were for sale, including seal skin mittens and slippers, sketchings, and an almost 8 foot long narwhal whale tusk (specially elongated tooth) priced at $4000.00. Unfortunately it was too long and heavy for our suitcase!
We’re off to a barbeque on the deck for our lunch. The food has been varied and plentiful.
Peeter and Carol Vanker
When we neared Alexander Harbour the weather deteriorated, the fog came in, the wind increased and it began to snow heavily. Whale watching was cancelled and we continued south. We had lectures, a movie and a demonstration of Inuit throat singing by one of our onboard Inuit guides.
We woke up to brilliant sunshine, temperature of about 6 degrees C., a bonus day in Qikiiakjuaq on Broughton Island off the east coast of Baffin Island, about 100 km. north of the Arctic Circle.
We landed in a small harbour by zodiac boats. We had a walking tour of this village of 500 persons. We visited one of the three hotels with 8 rooms at $ 225 per night. The nursing station is served by 3 nurses and a doctor who visits twice a month. They are building a senior citizens’
complex. The water is brought by tanker truck from a spring on a mountain side and is sold to the residents and $ 450 per tank full.
We were told that the polar bears become a nuisance in about a month’s time. The community has an “early warning” system of dogs on the periphery. Outside one of the homes was a recent walrus kill. Ours is apparently only the third cruise ship to visit this village this year.
Pond Inlet where we visited a few days ago had 8 ships visit this year, and 12 in 2008.
We visited the two local coop stores. Some sample prices were as
follows: 1.89 l. Tropicana juice: $11.39; 355 ml. single container of Tropicana juice: $9.69; a 4 litre bag of 2% milk: $12.49; Sarah Lee frozen apple pie: $22.89. P.S. Milk products are subsidized by the government.
We again had a throat singing demonstration in the community centre gym.
Outside a number of items were for sale, including seal skin mittens and slippers, sketchings, and an almost 8 foot long narwhal whale tusk (specially elongated tooth) priced at $4000.00. Unfortunately it was too long and heavy for our suitcase!
We’re off to a barbeque on the deck for our lunch. The food has been varied and plentiful.
Peeter and Carol Vanker
We are continuing our leisurely cruise in brilliant sunshine down the east coast of Baffin Island. There has been a constant stream of beautiful iceberg along the way.
We anchored at Monumental Island early this morning. We went by zodiac to a number of very small nearby rocky islands. We were thrilled to see one polar bear ambling along the rocky shoreline at a fairly close proximity. We saw another bear swimming near the shore and then join the second on the shore. They paced the rocks for some time. We then moved closer to a stunning iceberg in the zodiac during our 1 ? hour sail.
On another island we spotted five walruses lounging on the rocks. We watched them looking at us and moving their flippers up and down. One had lost one of its amazing tusks.
We are now sailing towards the entrance of Ungava Bay in northern Quebec in the Inuit territory of Nunavik. We hope to make another zodiac sail around Akpatok Island before continuing on to our final stop in Kuujjuaq from where we will fly to Montreal. We will only be dock at high tide.
This will be our last opportunity to blog our trip. The rest of our memories we will be able to share with you firsthand.
We are continuing our leisurely cruise in brilliant sunshine down the east coast of Baffin Island. There has been a constant stream of beautiful iceberg along the way.
We anchored at Monumental Island early this morning. We went by zodiac to a number of very small nearby rocky islands. We were thrilled to see one polar bear ambling along the rocky shoreline at a fairly close proximity. We saw another bear swimming near the shore and then join the second on the shore. They paced the rocks for some time. We then moved closer to a stunning iceberg in the zodiac during our 1 ? hour sail.
On another island we spotted five walruses lounging on the rocks. We watched them looking at us and moving their flippers up and down. One had lost one of its amazing tusks.
We are now sailing towards the entrance of Ungava Bay in northern Quebec in the Inuit territory of Nunavik. We hope to make another zodiac sail around Akpatok Island before continuing on to our final stop in Kuujjuaq from where we will fly to Montreal. We will only be dock at high tide.
This will be our last opportunity to blog our trip. The rest of our memories we will be able to share with you firsthand.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Hiking the Glacier and Visiting Pond Inlet
August 22, 2008
Morning landing on Bylot Island in Simirlik National Park. Long walkers hiked to the base of a glacier and on the tongue. Short hikers cruised the beach.
After lunch aboard, we landed at Pond Inlet where we were treated to a wonderful Inuit play demonstrating aspects of their culture including singing, dancing and a simulated seal hunt. Afterwards, native carvings, narwhal tusks and other souvenirs were purchased. Finally, a hike took some to the ruins of an earlier civilization. The weather was beautiful all day, sunny in the morning with clouds later. Temperature 6 degrees C ocean temp 0 degrees C.
Carl
Morning landing on Bylot Island in Simirlik National Park. Long walkers hiked to the base of a glacier and on the tongue. Short hikers cruised the beach.
After lunch aboard, we landed at Pond Inlet where we were treated to a wonderful Inuit play demonstrating aspects of their culture including singing, dancing and a simulated seal hunt. Afterwards, native carvings, narwhal tusks and other souvenirs were purchased. Finally, a hike took some to the ruins of an earlier civilization. The weather was beautiful all day, sunny in the morning with clouds later. Temperature 6 degrees C ocean temp 0 degrees C.
Carl
Rough Seas and Polar Bears
Aug 17
Due to rough weather, the Monumental Island landing was cancelled. Half the ship was seasick. Winds were 25 knots.
Aug 18
6:00 am The zodiac trip to shore at Cape Mercy in beautiful, sunny weather. One group hiked to a pretty freshwater lake. We also saw some interesting plant life-river beauty fire weed, moss campions , as well as some fool’s gold and mica on the rocky shoreline. Also spotted were glaucous gulls, black guillemot and canada geese, rare for the arctic.
Later in the day, we saw a polar bear swimming off the starboard side near icebergs.
Due to rough weather, the Monumental Island landing was cancelled. Half the ship was seasick. Winds were 25 knots.
Aug 18
6:00 am The zodiac trip to shore at Cape Mercy in beautiful, sunny weather. One group hiked to a pretty freshwater lake. We also saw some interesting plant life-river beauty fire weed, moss campions , as well as some fool’s gold and mica on the rocky shoreline. Also spotted were glaucous gulls, black guillemot and canada geese, rare for the arctic.
Later in the day, we saw a polar bear swimming off the starboard side near icebergs.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Arctic Odyssey July 20 - 28, 2008
July 25
It's marathon day, at least for the runners aboard. For the rest of us, the marathon of crossing Hudson Bay is over and we are able to get out and about on shore. We've acquired additional passengers as about 20 Inuit came on board yesterday to join in the race.
As I write, the runners and volunteers are getting their breakfast - extra pasta was available last night - but it's just the normal meal for them, minus the hot offerings put out each day. Oh- bananas have appeared. Must be looking for potassium. Now the call is out - is there any yogurt? Monique, a photographer, is shooting the scene, and the photos may appear in a brand new aboriginal magazine.
The rest of us are going to enjoy "contemplative walks" with the botanist and a longer hike on the plateau. Unfortunately, our time ashore is always too brief to participate in both offerings. Then it's back to the ship for a barbecue on deck. We have anchored in an exquisite fjord where there is no village or other sign of humans, apart from a well maintained mining road.
Yesterday was our best day - a visit to a village, lots of sightings of marine life while sailing through calm waters, past scenic islands and finally into Douglas Harbour. Several of the young girls aboard took up a petition and succeeded in getting us an extra zodiac ride in the evening. It was 11 p.m. in fading twilight before the last boat returned from the quiet ride. Twice, seals were spotted, and we glimpsed a soft pink sunset in the notch at the end of the harbour, but otherwise, it was just a ride that cleared the cobwebs from our brains.
My coffee cup is drained and the library is filling with early-rising non-runners. Time to find a staff member who has time to make sure the blog entries are sent.
Carol
Arctic Odyssey July 20 - 28, 2008
It's mid morning now. We've already had a very wet and bumpy ride on the
zodiacs to check out a large murre colony. Perched on the soaring cliffs
were adults and chicks, cheek by jowl, and the constant flight to and
fro of parents bringing food.
Some of the passengers are sitting around in the library, sipping tea
and exchanging tales of the excursion - 8 foot waves, some lost
breakfasts, wet cameras and soaked clothing - all a great adventure!
Susan has spent a great deal of time reviewing my wildflower photos this
morning. She's got endless patience and is so knowledgeable. We did find
one flower not previously identified as being on Coates Island, but she
tells me we couldn't consider this authoritative because we didn't
collect a specimen. So much to think about at once..taking photos,
collecting seeds, identifying species and now, checking to see if it's
ok to collect a specimen. Maybe I should stick to my back yard garden!
Well spend the rest of the day on ship, off to our next destination.
Carol
Dear all,
I would like to thank The Chris Robinson Travel Show with Sharman Yarnell, CJAD and Cruise North Expeditions for giving me the opportunity to win a fantastic arctic cruise.
From July 12th to July 20th my friend Janet and I experienced the trip of a lifetime on Cruise North’s Arctic Odyssey.
The scenery throughout our trip was the most picturesque I’ve ever experienced. I still visualize the huge icebergs glowing in the sun flowing by the ship in Ungava Bay, the most beautiful sunsets that endlessly changed hues through the very late night into early morning and our sighting of walrus on the floating ice.
We experienced scenery that begged to be photographed. On Akpatok Island we saw the nesting grounds of a huge colony of thick-billed murres and some impressive polar bears.
On our excursions to Diana and Opingivik Islands we saw musk ox, with their long hair blowing in the wind. We also saw some of the Arctic’s most beautiful flowering plants and an interesting archaeological site of the people of the Thule culture, who were the ancestors of the Inuit.
We also visited Kangiqsujuaq and Ivujivik, two charming Nunavik villages where the people openly welcomed us to experience the Inuit culture, customs, crafts and art.
Throughout our 9-day journey the excellent Cruise North staff continuously awed, enlightened and entertained us with their knowledge of the Arctic in their respective fields. Our appreciation goes to all of the ship’s crew and the young energetic Inuit trainees for always being friendly, professional and helpful. Our compliments to the chef and kitchen staff, for the superb selection and culinary presentation of delicious meals (featuring tasty local meat and fish) including a wonderful barbeque we had outdoors on deck on one of our many warm sunny days.
Our trip to the mystical historic Marble Island in Hudson Bay’s Nunavut was a special experience. It’s unusual and striking geology and its whaling history made for another memorable day excursion.
On the final leg of our expedition, on Hudson Bay at the mouth of Churchill River we had a most magnificent encounter with Beluga whales playfully swimming around, under and next to our zodiacs in what seemed like only something experienced in a dream.
Words cannot express the appreciation I have for giving me the opportunity to travel to the Arctic and experience an important part of Canada’s distinct culture and breathtaking beauty.
Yours in appreciation,
Gisèle
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Jour 4 Cruise North Expedition
Une autre journee sous soleil… un autre reveil a siroter notre cafe sur le pont pour Nick et moi. Ca devient une habitude… le soleil de l’Arctique est incroyable. Vraiment chaud mais la brise de l’ocean nous rappelle que nous devons porter notre tuque!
Aussitot le dejeuner avale, nous nous rendons aux zodiacs pour aller visiter le village de K. Les gens y sont tres accueillants, chaleureux, genereux… nous avons assiste a un spectacle tradionnel et ecouter les us et coutumes des gens de l’endroit… dont entre autre, comment construire un igloo. Nous y avons passe quelques heures… et ce qui est surprenant, c’est que chaque maison, en plus d’avoir une adresse a aussi le nom de la famille qui y vit. Le village est magnifique… le centre d’interpretation est simplement a couper le souffle!!!
12h30, retour au bateau. Nous quittons ce petit havre pour passer un apres-midi AT SEA. Ce qui veut dire que nous ne ferons pas d’escale.
Meme si l’apres-midi ne s’annoncait pas occupe… elle fut rempli de surprises… 6 morses sur les icebergs. Tout le monde sur le pont… vite!
Vite!
Armes de nos appareils photos… les seuls bruits perceptibles furent :
click! Click! Click!click!
Vive l’imprevu… tout le monde est retourne a l’interieur… heureux de ce petit moment photo… A demain, Christian CBC TV
Aussitot le dejeuner avale, nous nous rendons aux zodiacs pour aller visiter le village de K. Les gens y sont tres accueillants, chaleureux, genereux… nous avons assiste a un spectacle tradionnel et ecouter les us et coutumes des gens de l’endroit… dont entre autre, comment construire un igloo. Nous y avons passe quelques heures… et ce qui est surprenant, c’est que chaque maison, en plus d’avoir une adresse a aussi le nom de la famille qui y vit. Le village est magnifique… le centre d’interpretation est simplement a couper le souffle!!!
12h30, retour au bateau. Nous quittons ce petit havre pour passer un apres-midi AT SEA. Ce qui veut dire que nous ne ferons pas d’escale.
Meme si l’apres-midi ne s’annoncait pas occupe… elle fut rempli de surprises… 6 morses sur les icebergs. Tout le monde sur le pont… vite!
Vite!
Armes de nos appareils photos… les seuls bruits perceptibles furent :
click! Click! Click!click!
Vive l’imprevu… tout le monde est retourne a l’interieur… heureux de ce petit moment photo… A demain, Christian CBC TV
Monday, July 14, 2008
Premiere journee a l’ile Akpatok !!!
Je ne savais pas trop a quoi m’attendre… l’inconnu de l’arctique m’intriguait!!!
Mais voila, apres seulement quelques heures a Kuujuaak, hop, vous realisez que vous avez les deux pieds sur le Lyubov Orlova, le bateau qui deviendra votre maison pour les prochains 10 jours.
Le personnel est exemplaire, professionnel, attentionne… et souriant!!!
La premiere expedition sur l’ile Akpatok commence par une legere promenade de 2 heures a flanc de montagne… et tout ca apres avoir accoste entre 2 immenses icebergs sur le rivage. Tout les passagers, prenant des centaines de photos, ne veulent quitter cet endroit… meme si nous sommes encore a seulement quelques metres des zodiacs qui nous ont amenes sur l’ile. La randonnee commence… les fleurs, les icebergs, de vieux batiments abandonnes, nos « spotteurs » qui surveillent les ours polaires… ne sont la que quelques elements qui nous font rapidement comprendre que nous sommes loin de notre quotidien, notre realite, la realite urbaine… ici c’est dame nature qui gere notre horaire et non le temps… Retour au bateau… diner… et hop, dans les zodiacs au nord-est de l’ile pour aller a la rencontre des ours polaires. Chanceux comme nous sommes, nous en avons vu 3!!! Dont un qui nageait dans l’ocean.
Le retour au bateau, apres 2 heures en zodiac, fut apprecie par plusieurs… la temperature ayant descendu rapidement. Tout le monde au salon… the, cafe et chocolat chaud en main… on repasse la journee, les highlights, tout le monde semble avoir apprecie cette premiere journee remplie et mouvementee!!!
Demain… d’autres surprises!
Mais voila, apres seulement quelques heures a Kuujuaak, hop, vous realisez que vous avez les deux pieds sur le Lyubov Orlova, le bateau qui deviendra votre maison pour les prochains 10 jours.
Le personnel est exemplaire, professionnel, attentionne… et souriant!!!
La premiere expedition sur l’ile Akpatok commence par une legere promenade de 2 heures a flanc de montagne… et tout ca apres avoir accoste entre 2 immenses icebergs sur le rivage. Tout les passagers, prenant des centaines de photos, ne veulent quitter cet endroit… meme si nous sommes encore a seulement quelques metres des zodiacs qui nous ont amenes sur l’ile. La randonnee commence… les fleurs, les icebergs, de vieux batiments abandonnes, nos « spotteurs » qui surveillent les ours polaires… ne sont la que quelques elements qui nous font rapidement comprendre que nous sommes loin de notre quotidien, notre realite, la realite urbaine… ici c’est dame nature qui gere notre horaire et non le temps… Retour au bateau… diner… et hop, dans les zodiacs au nord-est de l’ile pour aller a la rencontre des ours polaires. Chanceux comme nous sommes, nous en avons vu 3!!! Dont un qui nageait dans l’ocean.
Le retour au bateau, apres 2 heures en zodiac, fut apprecie par plusieurs… la temperature ayant descendu rapidement. Tout le monde au salon… the, cafe et chocolat chaud en main… on repasse la journee, les highlights, tout le monde semble avoir apprecie cette premiere journee remplie et mouvementee!!!
Demain… d’autres surprises!
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