Hiking the Glacier and Visiting Pond Inlet

August 22, 2008

Morning landing on Bylot Island in Simirlik National Park. Long walkers hiked to the base of a glacier and on the tongue. Short hikers cruised the beach.
After lunch aboard, we landed at Pond Inlet where we were treated to a wonderful Inuit play demonstrating aspects of their culture including singing, dancing and a simulated seal hunt. Afterwards, native carvings, narwhal tusks and other souvenirs were purchased. Finally, a hike took some to the ruins of an earlier civilization. The weather was beautiful all day, sunny in the morning with clouds later. Temperature 6 degrees C ocean temp 0 degrees C.
Carl

Rough Seas and Polar Bears

Aug 17

Due to rough weather, the Monumental Island landing was cancelled. Half the ship was seasick. Winds were 25 knots.

Aug 18

6:00 am The zodiac trip to shore at Cape Mercy in beautiful, sunny weather. One group hiked to a pretty freshwater lake. We also saw some interesting plant life-river beauty fire weed, moss campions , as well as some fool’s gold and mica on the rocky shoreline. Also spotted were glaucous gulls, black guillemot and canada geese, rare for the arctic.

Later in the day, we saw a polar bear swimming off the starboard side near icebergs.

Arctic Odyssey July 20 - 28, 2008

July 25

It's marathon day, at least for the runners aboard. For the rest of us, the marathon of crossing Hudson Bay is over and we are able to get out and about on shore. We've acquired additional passengers as about 20 Inuit came on board yesterday to join in the race.

As I write, the runners and volunteers are getting their breakfast - extra pasta was available last night - but it's just the normal meal for them, minus the hot offerings put out each day. Oh- bananas have appeared. Must be looking for potassium. Now the call is out - is there any yogurt? Monique, a photographer, is shooting the scene, and the photos may appear in a brand new aboriginal magazine.

The rest of us are going to enjoy "contemplative walks" with the botanist and a longer hike on the plateau. Unfortunately, our time ashore is always too brief to participate in both offerings. Then it's back to the ship for a barbecue on deck. We have anchored in an exquisite fjord where there is no village or other sign of humans, apart from a well maintained mining road.

Yesterday was our best day - a visit to a village, lots of sightings of marine life while sailing through calm waters, past scenic islands and finally into Douglas Harbour. Several of the young girls aboard took up a petition and succeeded in getting us an extra zodiac ride in the evening. It was 11 p.m. in fading twilight before the last boat returned from the quiet ride. Twice, seals were spotted, and we glimpsed a soft pink sunset in the notch at the end of the harbour, but otherwise, it was just a ride that cleared the cobwebs from our brains.

My coffee cup is drained and the library is filling with early-rising non-runners. Time to find a staff member who has time to make sure the blog entries are sent.

Carol

Arctic Odyssey July 20 - 28, 2008

It's mid morning now. We've already had a very wet and bumpy ride on the
zodiacs to check out a large murre colony. Perched on the soaring cliffs
were adults and chicks, cheek by jowl, and the constant flight to and
fro of parents bringing food.

Some of the passengers are sitting around in the library, sipping tea
and exchanging tales of the excursion - 8 foot waves, some lost
breakfasts, wet cameras and soaked clothing - all a great adventure!

Susan has spent a great deal of time reviewing my wildflower photos this
morning. She's got endless patience and is so knowledgeable. We did find
one flower not previously identified as being on Coates Island, but she
tells me we couldn't consider this authoritative because we didn't
collect a specimen. So much to think about at once..taking photos,
collecting seeds, identifying species and now, checking to see if it's
ok to collect a specimen. Maybe I should stick to my back yard garden!

Well spend the rest of the day on ship, off to our next destination.

Carol

Dear all,

I would like to thank The Chris Robinson Travel Show with Sharman Yarnell, CJAD and Cruise North Expeditions for giving me the opportunity to win a fantastic arctic cruise.

From July 12^th to July 20^th my friend Janet and I experienced the trip of a lifetime on Cruise North’s Arctic Odyssey.

The scenery throughout our trip was the most picturesque I’ve ever experienced. I still visualize the huge icebergs glowing in the sun flowing by the ship in Ungava Bay, the most beautiful sunsets that endlessly changed hues through the very late night into early morning and our sighting of walrus on the floating ice.

We experienced scenery that begged to be photographed. On Akpatok Island we saw the nesting grounds of a huge colony of thick-billed murres and some impressive polar bears.

On our excursions to Diana and Opingivik Islands we saw musk ox, with their long hair blowing in the wind. We also saw some of the Arctic’s most beautiful flowering plants and an interesting archaeological site of the people of the Thule culture, who were the ancestors of the Inuit.

We also visited Kangiqsujuaq and Ivujivik, two charming Nunavik villages where the people openly welcomed us to experience the Inuit culture, customs, crafts and art.

Throughout our 9-day journey the excellent Cruise North staff continuously awed, enlightened and entertained us with their knowledge of the Arctic in their respective fields. Our appreciation goes to all of the ship’s crew and the young energetic Inuit trainees for always being friendly, professional and helpful. Our compliments to the chef and kitchen staff, for the superb selection and culinary presentation of delicious meals (featuring tasty local meat and fish) including a wonderful barbeque we had outdoors on deck on one of our many warm sunny days.

Our trip to the mystical historic Marble Island in Hudson Bay’s Nunavut was a special experience. It’s unusual and striking geology and its whaling history made for another memorable day excursion.

On the final leg of our expedition, on Hudson Bay at the mouth of Churchill River we had a most magnificent encounter with Beluga whales playfully swimming around, under and next to our zodiacs in what seemed like only something experienced in a dream.

Words cannot express the appreciation I have for giving me the opportunity to travel to the Arctic and experience an important part of Canada’s distinct culture and breathtaking beauty.

Yours in appreciation,

Gisèle

Cruise North Expeditions Passenger : Day One has Akpatok Island!

I did not know what to expect… the unknown of the Arctic intrigue! But now, after only a few hours in Kuujjuaq, the Lyubov Orlova (the ship) becomes your home for the next 10 days. The staff is exemplary, professional, attentive and smiling…! The first expedition on the island Akpatok begins with a slight walk 2 hours a mountainside… and all this after having docked between 2 immense icebergs on the shore. All passengers, taking hundreds of photos, unwilling to leave this place… even if we are still only a few meters from the zodiacs that we have brought on the island. The hike starts… flowers, icebergs, old abandoned buildings, our "spotters" who monitor polar bears… are the few elements that make us quickly understand that we are far from our lives, our reality, the urban reality … Here is Mother Nature who managed our schedule and not the time… Back to the boat…… dinner and hop in the zodiacs north-east of the island to go to meet the polar bears. Lucky as we are, we have seen 3! Including one who swam in the ocean. Returning to ship, after a 2 hour zodiac ride, … with the temperature down quickly. Everyone in the show…, cafe and hot chocolate in hand… back on the day, highlights, everyone seems to have appreciated this first day completed and hectic! Tomorrow… other surprises!

Cruise North Passenger Ruth says...

Arctic Explorer: July 3 - 12, 2008
What an amazing day we have had. We started bright and early leaving the ship in zodiacs in the sheltered harbour of Ivujivik. This is a small Inuit community located on the northeastern point of Nunavik where the Hudson Strait meets Hudson Bay. It is a community of very warm, friendly people who are a very creative group. We hiked up to the cliff that towers over the town. We had amazing views of the two waters, islands, the town and the airport, a short strip running across the top of the cliff. There were many colourful flowers along the way similar to those we saw on Baffin Island. As we came down to the road, a man and his young son approached on an ATV and it turned out that he had a soapstone carving to sell. It was a lovely piece that you will soon see as I was the lucky purchaser.

We talked to a number of the community members and then headed to the Co-op. It was surprisingly well equipped and quite expensive. The room of carvings at the back was incredibly popular with our group and Andy and I made a couple of other purchases. The prices are incredible and we are so happy with the pieces we chose. We were blessed with meeting the sculptor and sharing some stories and time with her. Women sculptors are fairly rare so it is nice to have her piece. She was delighted to know it was going to an appreciative home and we will exchange emails and I will send her the photos we took.

We re-boarded the ship and after a short sail transferred to the zodiacs again to visit the cliffs where the thick-billed murres nest. The geography is unbelievable and these black and white birds make do with the smallest amount of space possible on the ledges. There was quite a swell which was a bit better near the cliffs but the photos likely will have a lot of camera shake. It was exhilarating and topped off a special day.

We are now sailing back east in the Strait along the coast of Nunavik with more adventures planned for the coming days. The ice conditions look promising ahead.
Tuesday July 8th 4:15 pm

Cruise North Passenger Ruth says...

Arctic Explorer: July 3 - 12, 2008
We have just returned from a zodiac ice excursion off Cape Dorset. The ice conditions have prevented us from visiting Cape Dorset but we had a lot of excitement when Michael’s zodiac became engulfed in the fast-moving ice. Julio stayed to assist them and the remaining three zodiacs beat a hasty retreat from the encroaching ice. We saw many seals, both harp and bearded, lots of guillemots, murres, and couple of eiders (or perhaps only one on the move). We also saw the evidence of polar bears with the stained ice but it wasn’t possible to tell how recent they were there. Although we didn’t see the bears, it was an amazing experience to be so close to the ice. I even got a chance to dip my hand in the Hudson Strait. It was cold but not jarringly with a just a hand dip, but I won’t get out the bathing suit.

We have only had one landing on Baffin Island but the geography and fauna in the fiord at Nanuk Harbour was amazing. We were capably guarded by two Inuit guides armed with shotguns who nimbly ran up the cliffs to scout out the terrain. All this in Wellies. One of them, Aisa, is a star athlete who was very successful in the recent Arctic games.

Yesterday was rather an uninteresting day as we were mostly in fog, there were lots of lectures, movies, and (as usual) food, to keep us entertained.

There is never a dull day on board!
Monday the 7th at noon.